Originally Posted by
BillWojo
Wow, Jeff you completely amaze me over and over with your vast knowledge of audio engineering. Now you as an amateur DIY amp builder can build amplifiers that can put McIntosh Lab tube amps to shame.
Yes, that is pretty easy to do. I do that now, even with my less-than-perfect DIY implementations. My newest TYPE 46 SE 1.3 Watt amp, will KILL any Mac tube amp, on my own ALTECs, easily .
Let me pose a question to readers....What do you think will preserve the audio signal best. two voltage-optimized and linear triode stages, direct coupled, with NO negative feedback ( a Loftin White type design ) or a Mc Intosh 40 ?
Before you answer, just LOOK at the MC 40 schematic ( C1, C6 and C7, and lastly C8 and C9 ). It uses FIVE tube stages, and three SERIES coupling capacitors ( a capacitor IS the least desirable way possible to couple two stages ) all in series with the audio signal, input-to-output.
Does anyone reading this remotely think three coupling caps, in series, and FIVE active tube stages, will sound better than two tube stages and two inches of high quality Mil Spec wire carrying the audio signal. ?? It gets QUIET, when I ask that question.
Please post all the specs and graphs for your latest creation such as FR and THD.
"Specs" like that, FR and THD, are typically gotten in Push Pull with Negative Feedback, and such specs means next-to-nothing as to how an amp plays back music. Remove the anti-music NFB loops from the typical Push Pull amp, and then tell me about its specs!! Haven't you learned that yet ??? We don't LISTEN to specs. When gotten with ( always-out-of-time ) NFB, such specs mean ...... next to nothing !!
I only want to hear no-feedback loop audio playback, for myself, as the power amp.
No, I don't want to hear you babble about how great it sounds, just show us the specs.
A great amp will add no coloration or do anything to modify the input signal, a Mac amp is about the best there is for reproducing a signal cleanly.
Boy, are you outta touch with reality. LOL. You need to get out and LISTEN to things, go to a show, somehow ......educate yourself.
Since you seem to be an audio engineer, be it a backyard DIYer, please explain to all of us the theory behind Fulton wire lengths, many of us, or I'd venture a guess here, all of us are still trying to figure that out.
I am no engineer, thank goodness, but optimizing wire lengths came out of a audio engineering consultancy RWF did at a local Minnesota University, where they were testing Baboons with very high frequency signals.
In short, put some theory and science behind your bizarre claims.
I think its only bizarre to you, because, you don't know, quite yet, whats important, and what doesn't count. Maybe in 20 more years you will learn, or........ maybe never. It happens. We evolve in our understanding.
A McIntosh MC 40 Push Pull tube amp !!
Push - Pull has to invert the signal 180 degress, and then re-combine it, keeping it intact......... ( " All the King's horses, and all the King's men, could NEVER put poor old Humptey together again "), FIVE tube stages, THREE coupling caps, an E.E.s delight, .....come on !!
I am glad you are open to learning new things in audio, advancing your horizons, its so very commendable, and encouraging !!
BillWojo
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